Vintage Collection: 1940's

With the start of the Second World War in 1939 came to restrictions on the amount of new clothes being made as well as the fabric being used which put a stop to the surge of lavish Hollywood inspired outfits popular in the 1930s. Trends that were in style in the First World War became popular again with working women often choosing to wear trousers as an essential item for practicality. The hugely popular nylon stocking launched in America in 1940 was soon discontinued as the need for nylon supplies grew in the war effort, this caused great inconvenience for women with constantly laddering stockings and many went to desperate measures of painting stockings on their legs. When nylon stockings finally made a come back in shops after the war there were a surge of “nylon riots” as women tried to be the first to get their hands on the sought after item.

Day-to-day:

As with most things in Britain during the war clothing was strictly rationed and the scarce amount of fabric available meant that the clothes that were being manufactured were simple and practical. Skirts were worn at the knee with simple blouses and square shouldered jackets. As the men wore uniforms women used old suits to make new outfits and military style Eisenhower jackets were widely worn. By the middle of the decade young girls were wearing baggy sweaters called ‘sloppy joes’ over full, gathered dirndle skirts.

Couture:

Several fashion houses were forced to close during the war including Chanel and Vionnet (who had been credited for the introduction of the bias-cut in the 1930s) and did not re open until 1947 after the war had ended. Many designers, including Mainbocher, made the decision to relocate to New York and remained there after the war ended. However, several new houses, including Nina Ricci, Jeanne Lafaurie and Jacques Fath, were able to remain open throughout the war.

The Second World War had a largely positive influence on the American fashion scene. Cut off from European fashion, American designers such as Claire McCardell and Anna Klein were looked to for new fashions. Along with improving sizing standards and introducing care labels these designers began the transition from haute couture to ready-to-wear.

After the war ended in 1945 Christian Dior launched his first celebrated collection in February 1947 featuring his archetypal dresses with petite waists, substantial busts and full skirts spilling out from tiny bodices. Post-war, fashion starved women were drawn to Dior’s refreshingly lavish use of fabric and elegant designs which assured his dominance in the fashion world. Along with Cristóbal Balenciaga, Dior defined women’s silhouette of the years to come.

Beauty and Accessories:

While fabric supplies were limited women turned to milliners such as Simone Naudet and Rose Valois to add luxury and colour to their attire. Hats were made with whatever was available which often included discarded scraps of fabric, paper or wood shavings.

With the first perms introduced in the 1940s the curls of the previous decade remained popular with hair cut to the shoulder or in a jaw length bob. As the decade wore on curls began to be swept up to the top of the head, moving even further forward to the forehead in a pompadour by the mid 1940s. Hairnets called snoods made of velvet or chenille were worn over clusters of curls.